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Glow Engine

Posted on | February 17, 2010 | 7 Comments

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Glow Engine
Glow Engine
what are glow plugs for in a diesel engine?


what happens if they stop working?
cheerz bekibabe

A glow plug is a device mounted inside the combustion chamber of each cylinder to pre-heat the combustion chamber before a cold start. The glow plugs continue to cycle on/off temporarely (depends on vehicle) to aid in the motor running after first start up.

The glow plug is not what actually ignites the fuel. The fuel is ignited by super compression and an already hot combustion chamber (from the last cycle).

Some diesels do not use glow plugs, instead they use an intake air grid heater. This is an electric heater inside the intake manifold (or intake horn) that heats incoming air. They have the same effect as a grid heater.

A diesel motor can be started without glowplugs (or grid heater), but is difficult during colder temperatures ~45* and below. A faulty glow plug(s) will cause excessive white smoke during first start up, and the motor may not fire on all cylinders at first.



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Ceramic High Performance RC Engine Bearings-MVVS GLOW 40Ceramic High Performance RC Engine Bearings-MVVS GLOW 40PaypalUS $63.9529d 7h 49m
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Evolution Engines 2-& 4-Cycle Super Glow Plug EVOGP1Evolution Engines 2-& 4-Cycle Super Glow Plug EVOGP1PaypalUS $6.9921d 18h 24m
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Dubro Du-Bro Nitro Glow Engine Filling StationDubro Du-Bro Nitro Glow Engine Filling StationPaypalUS $44.5028d 8h 44m
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COX Black Widow .049 Glow Engine

Choosing the Right Glow Plug for Your Nitro Rc Car

The glow plug is one amazing piece of engineering, the closest anyone has ever got to a true perpetual motion machine, you radio controlled cars engine will run without anything apart from fuel, no spark plugs or electrical ignition, these babies run on the glow.

Selecting the correct glow plug is not that difficult you just have to understand how they work. Truth be told they are not exactly perpetual motion machine, they still require a little kick with a 1.5V battery to start the glow, after that they will keep glowing as long as the engine is running.

Turbo or Standard

A turbo plug will only work in a turbo engine, these do not have tiny 1:10 Scale fans blowing air into the engine like there full sized counter parts, the turbo plug is tapered at the end to create a tighter fit to the engine head, this in turn increases power slightly, you can't use a turbo plug in a standard engine, these require standard plugs.

The Glow Plug Temperature Rating

You need to find the right temperature glow plug for your engine, a hotter plug will work better when the engine is a little short of heat, while you should use a cooler glow plug if you have a large engine that produces a lot of heat.Hotter glow plugs also make it easier to start your engine, while the colder glow plugs will give you slightly better performance during you run.

There is no right or wrong setup, everything needs to be taken into account, from the temperature of the air to the hight above sea level these all affect they way the glow plug will perform.

Quality over quantity.

When buying a radio controlled glow plug it's always, as so many things in file, worth your while to get the slightly more expensive glow plug, these generally have a more consistent tune and heat and will often outlast the cheaper plugs by several runs, which makes up for the extra cost.

Reading your glow plug

Using a few simple methods it's easy to find out how close you are to a perfect tune by inspecting the glow plug, if there is a surplus of oil on the head then they are running to rich and need to lean up your mixture, if your glow plug is a grey color with a small amount of oil then your spot on with your tune, likewise if there is little to no oil and your glow plug filament is bent or thinning where it connects to the base of the glow plug then you are too lean and need to richen your mixture.

Some general points about glow plugs

  • Never touch the filament, this is very fragile and doing so can break the filament and ruin a plug.
  • Protect your engine by only buying good glow plugs from decent hobby shops
  • Keep your glow plugs in a cool dry place, they don't like moisture
  • Always select the right glow plug
  • Follow the recommended break in procedures for your engine.
  • When Breaking in an engine chances are that the plug you use will be ruined.
  • Keep your engine in tune
  • Never tighten a glow plug too much, it doesn't need to be as tight as you think
  • Watch out for nitro detonation, this means your using the wrong plug or your tune is way off.
  • Use the right glow starter
  • Ask other racers for help, the RC community is an awesome one and someone will always be willing to help you

 

About the Author

Gregory Alexander is a lead member of Karnage RC Drift and Race Team, and competes at racing and drifting radio controlled cars every chance he gets. Once a beginner he now shares his experiences with who-ever will listen. To find more tips and tricks like the one in this article please visit my site : The Ultimate RC Resource Site

Comments

7 Responses to “Glow Engine”

  1. wtfah67
    October 14th, 2010 @ 5:51 am

    yep you bet and cheaper than an ap head

  2. Erik O H Johansson
    December 26th, 2010 @ 7:32 am

    Hej Lars et al,

    Now, now, my good friend. How can anyone even think of a more beautiful aircraft than the Hawker Hunter? It was, most certainly, the pilot's as well as the mechanic's aircraft. We all loved our Hunters, at least we did at F8.

    Then again, the taste, like your behind, is split in two and thank God for that. If we all liked and thought the same would we not live in a very boring world.

    I was licensed and worked on the Hunter as well as the Lansen. From the mechanic's point of view the Lansen and the Hunter are in two quite separate classes. If I remember correctly the Lansen was designed around a Swedish designed jet engine that never came off the drawing board. Instead a RR Avon was installed with the result that all the inspection doors for the various engine adjustment points were in the wrong place. To work on the engine you should preferably have arms like an octopus. The Lansen was, quite simply not a very easy aeroplane to work.

    And about flying DC3s. When I worked for Internord and by the time we operated the Convair 990A, another very beautiful aeroplane, we had a small problem. Arriving from some warm destination in the south of Europe we landed at Malmo where the majority of the passengers disembarked. It was not cost effective to fly an almost empty 990Afrom Malmo to Arlanda. We solved this situation by leasing in a DC3 from, I can not remember, whenever the DC3 was big enough to take all the remaining passengers. Our concern was, how would our guest take it being, first flown in a Convair 9900A and then carry on in a DC3? We should not have worried about that. The passenger comments were very positive as they felt that they did that last leg in 'their private' aircraft. Add to that that one can see the landscape below you so much better.

    Which reminds me of when Internord and Transair operated DC7s. Transair also operated DC6s. In those days I worked as a Flight Watch Officer for Internord in Copenhagen. What bothered me was that, as mentioned above, we arrived from the south with a full load, left the majority of the pax in Malmo and then flew half empty to Bromma. That was one 'bad' flight in the evening and another 'bad' flight in the morning flying Bromma to Malmo. One late afternoon I called my counterpart at Transair asking him how many pax he had from Malmo to Bromma. Oh boy, I could easily take them to Bromma in our machine. And Bromma to Malmo the following morning? Same thing. So I suggested that I would take Transair's pax in my machine to Bromma and from Bromma to Malmo the following morning at no charge. Deal done. The following afternoon we did the same deal except Transair took my pax to Bromma and from Bromma to Malmo the following morning. Absolutely smashing. It saved us and Transair a Malmo – Bromma – Malmo flight every day. And so we went on. Until one day my then boss Ulf Engelbrecht called me in to his office. He had the Swedish SLV (isn't that what they were called in those days?) on the phone. Ulf asked me if I was responsible for these most illegal sub-charters. I nodded. Ulf, still with the SLV official on the line, gave me a right old rocket and fired me on the spot. With the phone call over Ulf re-hired me and thanked me for the good job I had done.

    Says Erik who thinks that life in 'those days' was wonderful and there is no aeroplane more beautiful that the Hawker Hunter.

  3. darthmojo
    February 23rd, 2011 @ 8:17 pm

    Mark: What extra detail are you looking for about the post-process? What I explained in the post is really all there was:

    - Add a touch of film grain
    - Add a touch of “enlarged” chromatic grain (this gave it a hint of the mpeg compression look
    - Added glow to the engines

    I may have played with the red channel a tiny bit to make the color of the red stripe a more perfect match, but that's about all there was.

    That being said, the world of post production on CGI FX shots is often overlooked by people just getting involved. Sure, we can spit some pretty nifty stuff out of our 3D software, but final tweaks in the compositing software of your choice can make all the difference (and it can save you from needing to re-render!)

    Back in the early days of Babylon Five and even most of Voyager, we rarely did any post-processing. What came out of Lightwave is pretty much what wound up on the air (although on Star Trek, the FX supervisors would take a handfull of elements and do their own tweaks to the shots in the editing bay).

    Of course, looking back now, I can't believe we did that! Today it's standard practice to break shots out into their component elements and “create” the final shot in comp (hollywood slang for “compositing.”)

    Still, I think sometimes people go to far with the number of elements they break shots into… yes, you'll almost always get better results by building and adjusting a shot in comp, but it does take a fair amout of extra time to spit out all those elements and, of course, to do the actual comp work. A talented artist can get a shot looking VERY close to final by tweaking things within the 3D package.

    For something like a simple shot (let's say an establishing shot of the Galactica,) I daresay you'd end up with maybe a 20% improvement in the look of the final by breaking the shot out into elements and compositing, but at a cost of perhaps double the work and manhours. Is it worth it?

    If you've got unlimited time and money, sure, go for it. But on a TV schedule, it might be wise to balance things out by examining each shot and deciding – in advance – what elements are truly necessary to seperate out to get you that extra bump in quality.

    I've watched people break out a ship no larger than a postage stamp into half a dozen seperate elements, simply because it was “standard procedure.” Doing this isn't going to make an appreciable visual difference to the shot, but it is going to suck up extra time, from the 3D artist creating those elements, to the time it takes to check them, and for the compositor to load and balance them.

    Let's say that amounts to 15 minutes of extra time… no big deal, right? But when you consider that an episode of a TV show can have thousands of individual elements, the 15 minutes saved here and there by customizing a breakout will ultimately save a LOT of time – time that could be spent tweaking where it counts.

  4. fox_prostate
    April 5th, 2011 @ 7:31 am

    Sorry that you lost your step dad! I’ve been in RC for a long time (I’ve got plenty of glow engine experience) so I’ll give you what I think this stuff is worth and what you should ask for it. Start on the high side (ie what I recommend), people will probably haggle you down a little bit. I might be off on some of these, but you should probably get at least 50% of the price I have here. Dago Red: $150 Alpha 60: (this plane is ready to fly and sold as a package with motor and radio, include the “Quattro” radio with it when you sell it) $250 Eagle 50 heli: include the transmitter that says Exceed RC on it: $60 Cap 232: $150 MegaStealth: $150 Unknown name plane: This is a Sportsman Aviation Excelleron 50. The canopy is missing which sucks, oh well. $250 with engine/servos. Red Flame plane: Not a clue what the hell this thing is. The engine is an AP Hornet 15. $75 T-Rex 450S: $100 Miscellaneous planes: – Yellow Bee: worthless. 5 bucks – White/blue plane: Multiplex Easystar. 60 bucks with the stuff you see in it. – “BREITLING” plane: Is this the Cap 232 you posted earlier, unboxed? If not, looks to be another one of the same. $150 – Unfinished kit-built airplane: Looks like a Great Planes Sport Stik 25 kit. 30 bucks. Parts: – First image: K&B 65 Sportster. 70 bucks if it’s new, 30 or so used. – Second image: can’t tell. The make/model is probably on the side. Start at 50 bucks? – Third/fourth image: Sachs 3.2 gasoline enigne. $75 – Images 5-7: Field box with starter (sell it all together): 30 bucks – Image 8: chargers: worthless. 5 bucks – Image 9: Cheetah mufflers: 15 bucks a piece The radios (controllers) aren’t worth much because they are so old (I wouldn’t trust them in any of my planes). 10 bucks a piece (except for the ones that you should include with the planes, as I explained earlier). You may have better luck selling this stuff at an RC auction. Go to modelaircraft.org, find a few RC clubs in your area, and call up the contacts for those clubs and ask them if they have any auctions coming up. You will probably be able to get rid of almost all of it in a day. You will probably get about as much as you would selling it online because the people who go to RC auctions are old and don’t use the internet. Good luck!

  5. Don E
    May 2nd, 2011 @ 7:18 am

    Get a new one.

  6. antiquekid3
    June 20th, 2011 @ 7:47 am

    A friend and I are working on getting this engine working again. However, I seem to be having trouble with the fuel mixture. The manual calls for a 3:1 mixture of white gas and SAE 70 oil. That sounds very lean to me. Most two-cycle engines require a 50:1 mixture of 2-cycle oil and gasoline. This is *not* a glow engine; it does indeed have a spark plug. Have there been enough advances in oil technology where I can use a modern-day fuel mixture like 50:1, or does this thing really require that much oil? I can hardly find any information on running these old engines since most enthusiasts seem to only use glow engines. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

  7. RAN1ER11
    October 2nd, 2011 @ 10:50 pm

    listen to everybody say how its not a 1000 hp. well it seems as though everyone on youtube worked in cooperation with to sam to build this thing so by now they must be experts. FUCK ALL OF YOU. not a single person has a supporting evidence to think so.